Monday, September 30, 2024
Tony Goes to Sardinia
Sunday, September 29, 2024
Bourdain Secret Restaurant Rome AsiaArgento Trattoria
Anthony Bourdain with Asia Argento
A Meal at Settemio
Rome, Italy
TONY'S SECRET RESTAURANT - Rome
On Sunday December 5, CNN broadcast a stunning Rome episode of Parts Unknown in which Anthony Bourdain and Asia Argento go to a trattoria, which they do not name. It’s Settimio. Sorry for the spoiler but I don’t believe in depriving Mario and Teresa of business through exclusion Watch the episode it is brilliant.
I vividly remember my first visit to Settimio al Pellegrino. It was in 2007 and my friend Jess and I had gotten a hot tip from a regular that a short walk from Campo de’ Fiori sat an uber-authentic trattoria serving simply dressed fresh pastas, meaty mains, and seasonal vegetables. We made a booking but when we showed up for dinner the door was locked. We were already off to a rough start. One of us noticed a button next to the door and after a sustained buzz, chef and owner Teresa opened the door a crack and said something to the effect of “chi siete”, who are you?
If that doesn’t sound like a warm greeting, it wasn’t. But at Settimio, warmth isn’t doled out frivolously. Warmth is earned. If you turn up without a reservation, there’s a real chance you will be sent away, whether they are booked up or not. It’s the kind of place where the possibility of a regular rolling in late leads Teresa and her husband Mario to set aside tables for such an occurrence. And even calling to reserve well in advance doesn’t guarantee a table. On that note, if you don’t speak Italian, have your hotel ring for you. And if all this sounds too fussy, don’t read on. Settimio isn’t for you.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN
PARTS UNKOWN - ROME
I have to be honest: arbitrary seating policies give me agita. I grew up in restaurants and treasure hospitality. I want to connect with the people who make and serve my food, not be rejected or dismissed. Yet I was determined to win over Teresa and Mario. That night, Jess and I ordered every course, including my current go-to, polpette, scorched yet delicious meat patties. We cleaned our plates, admired the eclectic decor (framed posters and paintings gifted by Settimio’s clients, which include plenty of artists and film makers) and watched as Mario worked the room, taking orders and doting on regulars. Teresa emerged from the kitchen occasionally to clear plates and pinch cheeks. Man, did it feel bad being an outsider at Settimio that night.
Jess and I apparently didn’t make much of an impression because I went back on my own a few days later for lunch and was given the same suspicious treatment. After a few more visits, however, I was totally in, cheek caresses and all. This is good news if you live in Rome or visit often. You, too, can become a doted-on regular. Otherwise, visit knowing you won’t be pampered by the service but you’ll definitely walk away having witnessed a Roman relic.
That is to say, a lot of what’s appealing about Settimio is the attitude and atmosphere. Some regulars have been going since the place opened in the 1930s, others a decidedly shorter length, but all are given special attention. In that way, the place is not unique. The attraction to countless other local joints is the experience and the relationship with the owners, even more so than the food.
I don’t think anyone with Roman dining experience would say the food is flawless. Like many places in town, it makes sense to stick to certain things like those meatballs or the onion-rich vitello alla genovese. At Settimio, comfort food reigns: fettucine with meat sauce, gnocchi with tomato sauce (Thursdays only), trippa alla romana, and involtini (meat rolls). The handmade pastas pass muster, but you won’t write home about them. The pillowy, super sweet, candied chestnut-studded Montblanc, which they do not make in house, is another story. I dream about it sometimes. Usually right before I go to the dentist. I am also very into the mela cotta (baked apple). I’m a sucker for overcooked fruit.
Second only to the struggle of winning the owners’ affection is the wines, which range from undrinkable to painfully undrinkable. While it’s charming that regulars leave unfinished bottles in the fridge for their next visit, I can honestly say that the only wine worse than the wine at Settimio is day-old wine at Settimio. It’s not what you’ve come for anyway.
Settimio al Pellegrino
Via del Pellegrino, 117
+390668801978
Anthony Bourdain - Parts Unknown Rome
Thursday, September 19, 2024
Macau No Reservation Bourdain Tony
Wednesday, September 18, 2024
Anthony Bourdain Makes Sunday Gravy
A PLATE of TONY'S SAUCE
Anthony Bourdain Favorite Books
Anthony Bourdain
In "Kitchen Confidential," Bourdain almost made himself sound like an author with an intelligence officer background, just like the type he advocated. The chapter, "Inside the CIA," detailed his time at the Culinary Institute of America, which he referred to with the same acronym as the Central Intelligence Agency. One real intelligence operative Bourdain recommended as an author, though, was novelist-turned-MI6-agent Graham Greene. When Bourdain named his favorite books to Business Insider, he listed Greene's "The Quiet American" among them, saying, "I re-read it frequently. Particularly when visiting Vietnam."
Bourdain also cited Julia Child as an early influence on his cooking in "Kitchen Confidential." In the "First Course" section, he wrote, "Julia Child's recipes have little snob appeal, but they also tend to work." Like Bourdain, Child was a chef, TV host, and bestselling author. Before she went abroad and penned "My Life in France" (which could be a good airplane book for your next trip to Paris), she worked as an intelligence officer for the OSS.
Tony said he got inspiration for his rendition of Sunday Sauce, in the cookbook Sunday Sauce by Daniel Bellino Zwicke.
As for authors with NGO backgrounds, Bourdain's own book imprint published "We Fed An Island" by chef José Andrés. The book chronicled the nonprofit effort led by Andrés and World Central Kitchen in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria. If you'd rather take a road trip in the U.S. than visit one of its island territories, Bourdain called "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas" by Hunter S. Thompson "the book that probably influenced me more than any other."
1. Down And Out in Paris & London by George Orwell
2. The Quiet American by Graham Greene
3. Mastering The Art of French Cooking - Julia Child
4. The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
4. Sunday Sauce - Daniel Bellino Zwicke
The above books are just a few examples of ones written by people who spent time on the ground in potential travel destinations, working them into their writing without authoring actual guidebooks. If Hunter S. Thompson novels aren't your thing — and you're not traveling to Las Vegas or any of those other places — you can always research works of literature tied to your specific destination. If nothing else, soaking up literary impressions could add a deeper dimension to your travels and give you a greater appreciation for local history in certain places. Say you need a Bourdain-appropriate hotel that's "down in the Treme" (or near it, anyway). If you know your local history, you could stay at the one that's a literary landmark with a unique rotating bar in New Orleans.
Though Bourdain recommended streetwise "novels by people who spent a long time" in a destination, his own writing remains a testament to the power of first impressions in travel as well. Looking back on "Kitchen Confidential" 20 years later, The Ringer called its "Mission to Tokyo" chapter "the functional first episode" of Bourdain's later travel programs. Tokyo was one of Bourdain's favorite places to visit, and he did so numerous times on TV. Yet his evocative descriptions of his first time in the city in "Kitchen Confidential" also brought it to life with vivid sensory details. Who needs a guidebook when you've got an artful literary travelogue like that to inspire you?
Friday, September 13, 2024
Anthony Bourdain Top New York Restaurants Eats
Bourdain and Cheung decide to order both sides of the menu to cover their bases. Bourdain opts for the standard Cantonese options – wonton soup with dumplings of juicy pork and shrimp, crispy egg rolls, BBQ spareribs, pork fried rice, and pungent sweet & sour pork.
For the off-menu, Cheung orders from memory the old-timey dishes from his past. Cantonese crab in a sauce of chili, egg, and soy sauce, and periwinkle snails, smaller than your French escargot, in a black bean sauce.
The meal is finished off with pan-fried flounder Cantonese style, with a sweet soy sauce, made using some of the fry oil, and plenty of fresh cilantro and scallions.
While we've already highlighted a great no-frills burger option above, the next of Anthony Bourdain’s favorite NYC restaurants features their own next-level patty.
Minetta Tavern in Greenwich Village has an infamous Black Label Burger that costs a whopping $33, which is expensive even by New York City standards. What makes it so noteworthy? "A special blend made just for them by Meat Master General of New York, Pat LaFrieda," Tony explained.
10. EISENBERGS SANDWICH SHOP